If you thought Goa is best enjoyed in winter, try it in monsoons and you are sure to get hooked
There I was, ready with my threat, a secret smile on my lips. “I am going anyway, so you decide.” After 10 years of marriage, the man obviously knows which threats need to be taken seriously. So there we were, on our way to Goa, just months after we’d completed 10 years of marriage.
Why Goa?
Well, to begin with, I’d been to Goa with college friends, an all-women group and he’d been to Goa on a work trip (I sincerely hope it was only that). But we’d never gone there together. Also, and this is more important, I’d heard so much about Goa being utterly romantic and beautiful during monsoons that I was sure to push my agenda. Of course, I also took the six-yearold daughter as bait for dear husband, with an excuse for how she needs to experience the sea. The deal was sealed.
When we arrived in Goa on a rain-soaked night on June 12, cool winds greeted us. The monsoons had just arrived a few days ago, our driver told us. The rain-heavy sky looked intoxicating, and the smell of the wet earth only added to the lovely drive.
I had wound up my work and was, for once, travelling without the laptop. So yes, no morning calls for work and no alarms to wake me up. What woke me up, in fact, was the music of the rain outside.
I knew why some friends who had been to Goa in the monsoons gushed about it. To begin with, the weather is perfect and the lush greenery acts like a balm to city stressed eyes. Lounge around in your balcony chair with a hot cup of coffee and enjoy the pitter-patter. Of course, that wasn’t all that the morning was made of once the man and the kiddo were up.
Have a hearty breakfast and set off for the day. If it hadn’t been for the monsoons, I would have recommended Martha’s Breakfast Inn, a lovely breakfast joint run by the husband-wife duo, not too far from Anjuna. Their omelette and waffles are to die for. But since they are closed for monsoons, like a lot of places are, you can always rely on your hotel to do some lip-smacking waffles or garlic toast.
Mind you, the garlic toasts in Goa are usually delicious buns doused with generous amount of garlic and olive oil, perfect for a monsoon day. Cottiga at The Tamarind Hotel gave us the lovely sugar high with their delicious waffles and home-baked cakes. A standard thing to remember while in Goa in the rains is to have flexible plans. The rains can come unannounced and retrace as quickly. Be ready with your best gear — shorts, rain shoes, a T-shirt (an extra pair in your backpack if you plan to get soaked in the waves), a rain cover for the bag, an umbrella or raincoat, and you are ready for a lovely day.
The beaches are quite something at this time. So while you will still find the crowds at Calungute and Bagha, it’s Vagator and Anjuna if you want some quiet time. Build the sand castles you want, just sit by the beach looking at the wild waves or walk hand in hand with your significant other. In fact, sometimes the beaches are so quiet, it feels like it’s just you there. Reconnect with yourself and feel the stress ebb out.
And once you are done reconnecting with yourself, get back into the worldly mode with a vengeance. We headed to Anand seafood bar and restauraunt at Anjuna Siloim Road. Settle for Chonak richad, succulent king fish curry, Xacuti or the fish thali. Wash down the spiciness with chilled beer and you are sure to come out smiling. Simple ambience and superb food.
And if the foodie and adventurer in you are debating, a superb idea is to plan a trip to the spice plantations. The tours are wonderfully guided, with a meal at the plantation to add to the experience. The Sahakari Spice Plantation (the largest spice farm of the Ponda region), Savoi, also has accommodation facilities, as do a few others.
What’s more, the spice plantations are a delight in monsoons. Let the aroma of pepper, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg and ginger lead you through the plantation. What is better is to taste them in your food — warm and satisfying. Crabs, prawns, fried mussels, fresh vegetable curries, you name it.
If you are looking for some adrenalin rush, head to the awe-inspiring Dudhsagar Falls, which are at their glorious best in monsoons. And if you haven’t had your fill of soaking in the rain, stand close to the falls and you’ll be drenched in seconds. You can either take the train or opt for the lovely drive through Panaji or Madgaon. If you are a trekking enthusiast, you will love the trek to the falls. Steep in parts, but completely worth it.
If the photographer in you is yearning for more frames, the wildlife sanctuaries should be on your must-visit list. Unlike other sanctuaries, these are open throughout the year. And you can imagine how the green only adds to the pictures. The one’s you could choose from are the Bhagwan Mahavir Sanctuary, Mhadei Wildlife Sanctuary, Mollem National Park, and Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary.
No trip to Goa is complete without a visit to the churches. The imposing architecture, the craftsmanship, and the different styles of building are a study in itself. It is interesting to know church building was one of the main occupations of the early Portuguese. In fact, one of Vasco da Gama’s main missions for finding the sea route to India apparently was to “seek Christians and spices”.
So it’s not unusual to find a church in almost every corner of Goa. But yes, if you’ve gone all the way to Old Goa, some churches are a must visit. Take, for instance, the Bom Jesus Basilica, perhaps Goa’s most famous church, and a World Heritage monument. Bom Jesus means “good Jesus” or “infant Jesus”, to whom it is dedicated. This awe-inspiring edifice is a brilliant example of baroque architecture in Goa. Another reason for the popularity of the church is that it houses the body of St Francis Xavier. Legend has it that before his final resting place in the Basilica of Bom Jesus in 1624, his body was buried in three different countries. Each time the body was exhumed, it was found to be intact.
The body, having resisted extensive decay, is now in the Basilica of Bom Jesus in Goa, where it was placed in a silver casket on December 2, 1637. The silver casket is lowered for public viewing only during the public exposition which occurs for six weeks every 10 years.
Another beautiful church is the Church of St Francis of Assisi in Old Goa. Built during the Indian baroque period, it shows the local architectural influences in terms of style and design. The outer facade and the ceiling, for instance, include flowers and other tropical motifs.
Missing partying? Head to the famous Mambo’s and Tito. If live music is your thing, head to Cavala, on Baga-Calangute Road. Some sing-along fun? There is karaoke at St Anthony’s bar at Baga Beach.
If you are planning a trip in August, you can also witness the Bonderam Festival in Divar Island. Some local friends (I made some on my girly trip the first time) tell me the festival begins with a vibrant parade with colourful flags. And the performances by famous local bands add to the vibe of the festival.
Since we went in mid-June, we could neither witness that, nor Sao Joao (a festival when villagers jump into wells, streams and ponds), held on June 24, with feni being an important part of the celebration, of course. We decided to drown the disappointment in some home-brewed authentic feni. Carry some back to remind yourself of the heady place that is called Goa.